Every UK opera company will, at some point, email you directions to Hendon. For non-UK dwellers, Hendon is way out on the outskirts of my sprawling home city of London, and was originally 'Hendun', or 'highest hill'. Now it is the home of the vast costume emporium, Angels. In the past, I have been sent here to find lederhosen, petticoats, and Mediterranean army fatigues. Today it is a 1950s child's party dress for the Buxton Festival. My fitting complete, I wander as slowly as possible back to the front door, so as to better read the faded inscriptions on all the Hollywood photographs that line the hallways.